In this guide
Often skipped on the standard Rajasthan loop, Bikaner rewards the travellers who make the detour into the northern Thar. It has a spectacular fort that was never conquered, one of India's strangest and most fascinating temples, a camel country heritage — and, if you care about food, some of the best snacks in the state.
Junagarh Fort
Bikaner's centrepiece is Junagarh Fort, built between 1589 and 1594 by Raja Rai Singh. Unusually, it sits on flat land rather than a hill, and it has the rare distinction of never being captured. Inside is a beautifully preserved complex of palaces, courtyards and pavilions — carved stone, painted rooms and mirror work — that's less crowded than the big-name forts of Jaipur or Jodhpur.
Karni Mata Temple (the rat temple)
About 30 km south at Deshnok stands the Karni Mata Temple, home to some 20,000 sacred rats (kabas) that are fed, protected and worshipped. Spotting a rare white rat is considered especially auspicious. It's a genuinely unusual, deeply-held living tradition — visit respectfully, and note you'll walk barefoot among the rats (as pilgrims do).
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Plan My Trip →Camel country
Bikaner is closely tied to the camel: it hosts the National Research Centre on Camel (a camel breeding farm open to visitors), and the city's winter Camel Festival is a colourful spectacle of decorated camels, races and folk performances.
Other things to do
- Rampuria Havelis — a cluster of ornate red-sandstone merchant mansions in the old city.
- Bikaneri food — the city is the home of bhujia (the famous snack) and rich sweets like rasgulla; the old-city bazaars are the place to graze.
Best time to visit
October to March, when desert days are comfortable. The Camel Festival typically falls in winter. Summers are fierce.
How to reach
Bikaner is well connected by train and road from Delhi, Jaipur and Jodhpur, and pairs naturally with Shekhawati or a Jaisalmer desert leg. It has a railway junction and a small airport with limited flights.
Where to stay
From budget hotels to grand heritage stays (including former royal properties). Old-city havelis put you near the fort and bazaars.
Costs (indicative)
Affordable to mid-range; heritage hotels are the splurge. Fort entry, camera fees and a guide are worth budgeting for.
Responsible travel
At Deshnok, be respectful of a living faith — dress modestly, don't harm the rats, and follow temple etiquette. Support old-city artisans and eateries, and avoid single-use plastic in the desert.
FAQ
Is the Karni Mata rat temple safe to visit?
Millions visit; you walk barefoot as pilgrims do. If that's not for you, you can view the courtyard respectfully — but the rats are central to the site.
Is Bikaner worth adding to a Rajasthan trip?
Yes, if you have time — it's less touristy than the big cities and offers a fort, a unique temple and great food in one compact stop.
Written by PlanMyOffbeat Team
Independent, verification-first travel guides for offbeat trips.
